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21 Steps to Follow when Choosing an Expedition Company for Everest or other 8000m Peaks The Fall season is upon us and it is the time when many plan their next big climb in the Himalayas. As I write this article, few major expeditions will be going to Nepal this year and it is still uncertain as to what next year will be like. But if you are optimistic about a turn-around with the pandemic, what follows are 21 key features that you should be looking at, in order to choose which expedition you will join next Spring for Everest North or Everest South. They are not in order of importance.  Success rate: Be wary of ANY company that claims 100% success rate. I have no knowledge of a single company that has this. Success means you arrive at BC, you participate in the expedition, you summit, and you return to BC. Don’t shop for phony success rates and instead look for a credible safety record. Safety also means no frostbite, no permanent organ damage, no time in a KTM ICU, no cardiac ste...

What really happened on the day that Ueli Steck fell from Nuptse?  The person who found him shares some interesting clues... Vinayak Jaya Malla is a Nepalese In-Training Mountain Guide and the person who found Ueli Steck while climbing up to C2 on Everest with a group on April 30, 2017. The author (Dr. Leo Montejo) met Vinay in 2016 while climbing the Sky Caves of Mustang in Nepal, and was impressed by his skill and manner while on the mountain. He saw him again this year at Everest Base Camp shortly before Vinay summitted with a group from the Indian Navy. His story of what may have happened is filled with great respect and admiration for Ueli, and it is also a first glimpse and analysis as to what probably occurred that morning on the slopes of Nuptse.   Vinay, at Everest Base Camp about 10 days before Ueli's accident on Nuptse # I understand you were with Mingma Sherpa when you found Ueli on April 30. What were the two of you doing in the area of the acciden...

If you are traveling to Nepal, and headed towards Everest BC or higher, the first question you will ask yourself is how to best stay in touch. For 2017, we did our homework, and these are our recommendations... What to Pack  Unlocked Android Phone Sleeve to protect your Android phone - we damaged ours during our last trip! I-Streme App  installed on your unlocked phone Portable Charger External Battery Pack to maintain your smartphone and Thuraya charged at all times. (Note this pack has TWO outputs!) Solar Panel  (we use this one) Wearables (HR, Pulse Oximetry) to keep track of your health that are I-Streme compatible Thuraya Satsleeve + with a GmPRS SIM card for a data plan Thuraya Satsleeve App installed on your smartphone (for voice) DeLorme inReach if you are a minimalist and do not wish to have comprehensive weather updates, send pics, unlimited text, tweet, stream wearables/biometrics as often as you want... 3G, Wi-Fi or Satellite...