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Showing posts with the label Mount Everest

The Ethics of Everest Expeditions

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  The Ethics of Everest Expeditions   Back in the early 90’s, Rob Hall began offering commercial expeditions to climb Mt. Everest with his then company Hall and Ball Adventure Consultants.   He was at the forefront of an industry that was to flourish into the multi-million dollar one that exists today. Many expedition leaders today hardly have the passion that Rob had then (climbing the 7 summits in 7 months, before his Everest season), nor a similar love for mountains that Gaston Rébuffat made popular in the late 70’s with his books and movies. In fact, most of them today are businessmen (some even present themselves as such on their calling cards – ‘Expedition Climber/Businessman’) – and they will use the same ethics that are common in this world while they guide you into the Death Zone. Gaston Rébuffat, who was part of the French Annapurna team in 1950 The offering today is also very different. The biggest companies in the business are not from Western operator...

What really happened on the day that Ueli Steck fell from Nuptse?

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What really happened on the day that Ueli Steck fell from Nuptse?  The person who found him shares some interesting clues... Vinayak Jaya Malla is a Nepalese In-Training Mountain Guide and the person who found Ueli Steck while climbing up to C2 on Everest with a group on April 30, 2017. The author (Dr. Leo Montejo) met Vinay in 2016 while climbing the Sky Caves of Mustang in Nepal, and was impressed by his skill and manner while on the mountain. He saw him again this year at Everest Base Camp shortly before Vinay summitted with a group from the Indian Navy. His story of what may have happened is filled with great respect and admiration for Ueli, and it is also a first glimpse and analysis as to what probably occurred that morning on the slopes of Nuptse.   Vinay, at Everest Base Camp about 10 days before Ueli's accident on Nuptse # I understand you were with Mingma Sherpa when you found Ueli on April 30. What were the two of you doing in the area of the acciden...